How we make our candles + helpful tips for your candle making journey
Hi Fam! I’m back with another blog post. I would like to start posting tutorials and/or informational posts on various topics. When I started no one helped me. It was all YouTube, Google, and most of all Trial & Error. I mean seriously, the trial and error was the most expensive part out there and still is. Everyone wants to experience success, but not many people are willing to show you how to get there.
This post will provide some insight into my experience with candle making and things that have helped me along the way. Please perform your own testing before you officially sell your first product! If you have additional info that you are willing to share, please contact me or leave a comment for those to see your recommendations.
Now For The Meat And Potatoes Y’all
Pictured above are our top three best selling candles. Black Sea, Egyptian Amber, and Pineapple Sage. Our customers love these fragrances so we keep them on the shelf. The labels were all designed, printed, and cut by me. It saves money when you are just starting out. I use white matte sticker paper from Online Labels, Scotch laminator pouches from Walmart, clear glass jars from Peach State Candle Supply, cd wicks and candle wax from The Flaming Candle, and fragrances from my top three suppliers which are Candle Science, The Flaming Candle, and Natures Garden Candles.
You don’t have to use these specific suppliers. These are just the top three I like. There are plenty to choose from for supplies. A few are listed below.
Candle Suppliers
Candle Science
The Flaming Candle
Natures Garden Candles
Peach State Candle Supply
Lone Star Candle Supply
Pro Candle Supply
NorthWood Candle Supply
Aztec Wholesale Candle
Candles and Supplies
Brambleberry
California Candle Supply
Maple Street Candle Supply
Let’s Get Into It
Making candles can be simple yet frustrating at the same time. I currently use 464 Soy Wax for my jar candles. For my wax melts I use Coconut Soy mixed with IGI 4625 Pillar and Votive wax. Previously I used 494 but changed to this mixture.
464 Soy Wax- Is a natural soy wax which contains a soy based additive. The soy based additive is to help reduce the appearance of wet spots, frosting, and increase fragrance load. This wax is meant for jar candles. Comes in flake form. Melt point 115-120 degrees Fahrenheit.
IGI 4625 Pillar & Votive Blend- Is a paraffin wax used in pillar/votive/tarts products. This wax isn’t meant for jar candles unless you don’t use a wick. No additives required and melt point is 145 degrees Fahrenheit.
Coconut Soy Wax- Is a blend of coconut and soy wax. Has a white finish and is used in container candles. Comes in slab form. Melt point is 130 degrees Fahrenheit.
Melting Your Wax/ Fragrance Load
When melting the wax, I use the double boiler method. This is when you place water in one boiler, then place wax in your pouring pitcher or heat safe dish, and then place that pouring pitcher in the boiler to melt. There are other ways such as using a melting pot. The temperature that your wax melts will depend on the manufacturer it is purchased from. It is recommended to use 6% of fragrance oil to one pound of wax. This is typically 1.5 ounces of fragrance oil to 1 pound of wax. This you can play around with to obtain cold throw (can you smell candle when not lit) and hot throw (candle you smell candle while lit). I add roughly double the amount. So instead of adding 1.5 ounces of fragrances per pound, I add 3 ounces of fragrance per pound. It gives a much better cold and hot throw. Be mindful that some candle fragrances are loud already. It is also recommended to wait at least two weeks for cure time to get accurate test results. The longer the cure, the better the results.
Coloring Candles
I do not normally color my candles unless I am making dessert candles. I do color all my wax melts. When coloring my wax melts, I use Mica powder from Mad Micas. Definitely my number one choice of coloring. To color candles, use candle dye or dye chips. Using Mica powder in your candle will clog your wick. It causes the candle to tunnel and with too much mica it won’t stay lit. Trust me I’ve tried it. 464 soy wax is very funny acting when it comes to color. It sometimes frosts or creates wet spots where the wax doesn’t stick to the jar. Your house temperature also plays apart in this as well. Frosting and wet spots only affect appearance. It does nothing to the fragrance or candle itself.
When using additives, place as close to the jar vs wick as possible. This is possible fire hazard and not recommended. Yet, I have tested this theory and the additives fall into the melted wax.
Jars & Wick
Choosing jars isn’t the hard part. The hard part is choosing the wick that fits the jar. Most jar manufacturers will list the recommended wicks and sizes in the description. Be sure to read before purchasing and still test to see what fits your containers best.
TIP: Before blowing out your candle, make sure it has an even melt pool. This prevents your candle from burning straight down the middle.
In Closing
I hope this helps you on your journey to becoming a candle maker. This is just the basics of how to get started. If you have questions please let me know. I am not the best expert out there but trial and error has taught me a lot. Don’t be afraid to let me know if I missed information of if you have tips to add. Also let me know topics for future blogs. As always stay blessed, stay true to yourself, and never stop dreaming. They really do become reality!